Benfield & Delamare 2001 Newsletter

Michael Cooper’s column in the Sunday Star Times of 4th Aug, 2002 surveys the wine regions of New Zealand. For the Wairarapa, he notes that "Several varieties have shone, but Cabernet Sauvignon is typically the least successful (except in the hands of such devotees as Bill Benfield & Sue Delamare).

 2000 Newsletter 
 2001 Newsletter 
 2002 Newsletter 

Quite flattering to us, but is it fair to the variety and other producers in the district? It was not our wine that won the trophy for best in show at the Easter show in 2000.

In fact there are quite a few successful producers, and quite a few medal winners besides us. Is the problem consistency? I have certainly heard the suggestion that "Cabernet can struggle in cooler years". If so, why? Martinborough, at Lat 41 South is the same distance from the equator as Oporto, Corsica, hardly cool places. Bordeaux at Lat 45 North is around the same distance from the equator as Oamaru. In fact, Martinborough is not as warm as Oporto. The Southern Hemisphere is an ocean hemisphere. Cold currents sweeping from the south, or warm from the North can almost have a bigger impact on climate than Latitude. Here New Zealand is lucky, Australia, South Africa and Chile all have significant cold currents cooling their west coasts, and in Australia’s case, south coast too. New Zealand on the other hand, enjoys a warmer surrounding ocean caused by the East Australian current curling back up the Eastern Tasman along our West Coast. Due to our small land mass and Latitude, we have a very mild climate, with a long vegetative cycle and short winter dormancy.

Comparing the heat summations over our long season to the shorter more continental season of Bordeaux, we are in fact slightly warmer than Bordeaux. Where the Bordelaise talk of 100 days, mid flowering to vintage, for Martinborough, it is around 130+ days to achieve the same thing, so what is the problem ? Certainly Cabernet Sauvignon, and to a lesser extent its close cousins, Merlot and Franc are not tolerant of high vigour sites, of overcropping, of less than warm conditions at the fruit line. I have seen sites with one or more of these defects, high fruit lines loosing the advantage of radiated ground heat, as well as catching cooling breezes.

But ultimately, consistency, of ripening most years, has more to do with persistence, of being prepared to put aside the conventional wisdom’s, to experiment. Success also lies in the nerve to hold in through birds, rotten weather forecasts (usually wrong), and every hazard, real and virtual that afflicts the grower as he/she holds in for an extra few days, for the best vintage, whatever!

Both 2000 and 2001 were cool years, the real point of difference being that 2001 was also very dry, we were able to sit it out for the ripeness we wanted. To compare the years, Cabernet was picked in 2000 on 18 April in poor weather, 2001, the same picking was 3 May, the weather just beginning to pack up after no significant rain since the previous October. Merlot performed brilliantly in the dry conditions, and forms the bulk of this vintage.

2001 was aged in 50%new oak, the balance both one and 2 year. The wine is roughly 85% Merlot, the balance, equally Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc. Vintage was between the 23rd April and 3rd May The protracted dry autumn allowed us to choose the best time to pick. This is reflected in the bright deep ‘black doris’ colour, Nose is sweet, black fruits with soft savory/spicy overtones. On the mouth, fleshy, balanced, many layered, sweet black cherry, smoky with hints of exotic and savory spices. A gentle expansiveness belies a spine which should give this wine the ability to carry for some years.

Total production, 197 cases.