Benfield & Delamare 2002 Newsletter

In all of life, there are defining moments or events. Some come like a bolt out of the blue, there is no avoiding them. Others sneak up on you, minor events and decisions compound, and suddenly, your realisation is the defining moment.

Frost is a defining moment that comes like a bolt out of the blue, and forever after, shapes vineyard management, so you don't get caught so badly again. Irrigation, or the lack of, is something that just sneaks up.

 

Benfield & Delamare
35 New York Street
Martinborough
New Zealand
Telephone and fax:
(after hours)
(06) 306 9926

Email: bendel@xtra.co.nz

 

 2000 Newsletter 
 2001 Newsletter 
 2002 Newsletter 

The available literature at the time we set up suggested irrigation was more the devise of "industrial" grapegrowing, and "quality" was more likely to come from un-irrigated vineyards. It just seemed a non-issue. We do have to hand water some young vines during their first summer. We subsequently discovered that with an average growing season rainfall of 385.26mm over the years 1958-1993 at Mahaki (NIWA Stn. No. D15244) just south of the town, Martinborough fell between Bordeaux at 380mm and Burgundy (Dijon) at 400. Not a problem, but getting through a dry summer does tend to shape your viticulture!

Frost is one of life's great levelers. While some may claim they are on a frost free site, they will get caught sooner or later. We were wiped out in Nov. 1991, and have taken frost very seriously ever since. One soon learns that there are 'passive' protections, such as keeping the ground clear of weeds and grasses between the rows, and active protection, such as engaging helicopters or lighting burners.

So too with frost protection. All the literature at the time pointed out that clean firm (rolled?) ground and maintaining natural air movement is effective passive protection. The beauty of passive protection is that it works whether you do anything else or not, and further, we suffer no damage at levels of frost where near neighbours without passive protection are damaged despite using active frost protection. However, if the frost is bad enough, 'passive' protection becomes 'partial' protection. This is where active protection comes into play, which usually involves varying degrees and means of applying energy. Less reliable than passive protection, like the helicopter you want is away for service! Or as has happened, the diesel powered pump for a frost sprinkler system refused to start on the night. We use diesel heaters for top up protection, low fuel use, and reliability.

So, a desire for quality and sustainability as well as survivability has shaped our practice from the beginning. Our clean vineyards provide less habitat for pests, and hence our spray burden is low. On frost nights, we use little to no non-replaceable fossil fuel resources. No rivers have their flow reduced, no aquifer depleted, no wetlands are degraded in making our wine. Because the vines must go deep in search of water, they are less affected by short term weather events, our wines are more consistent, as medal and other results over the last 12 years demonstrate.

Our wines are but the expression of the terroir and what is naturally available in it, they are not the expression of Martinborough bore or town water.

Vintage 2002, the wine

On the basis of picking dates of between the 21st & 27th of April, 2002 was warmer than 2001. At a guess, probably into the low to mid 1300 Heat Units. A more "balanced" year than 2001, with enough rainfall to maintain a good canopy of foliage. Vintage conditions were good, and fruit both clean and ripe. The Merlot was left on skins for 20 days, and the Cabernets for 19. Pressing as usual in our basket press, settled and into barrel. The wine was matured in around 70% new oak (5 new barrels of the 7). Finally bottled 28th January, 2004. A blend of roughly 50% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Franc makes a firmer wine than the 2001.

The colour is dark ruby, with spicy herbs, cassis and floral nose. Quite a large wine on the palate, yet with elegance and smooth pervasive tannins. Plums, cassis, leather and toasty oak predominate at this stage.

More Information about past vintages